Creating Kimono Completely In-House

The starting point for product development in Aoyagi is design.

Design is a very important job to devise all about the products
for example market research, design devise, material devise, application technique devise, etc.

At Aoyagi, who constantly seeks new things, we value free and flexible ideas and strive for daily development.

Hang the some cloths on a wooden frame with a needle called a steaming frame. At this time, pay close attention so that the cloths do not come into contact with each other.

Fill the steaming kiln with steam at about 100 !aC, put a steaming frame, and wait for about 30 to 50 minutes while adjusting the amount of steam.
Steaming time varies depending on the type of cloths, color density, and season, so it may be a repetitive task in some cases.

In order to appear the color beautiful, in the case of steaming for the second time or later, the top and bottom of the cloth are swapped and hanged so that the steam hits evenly.
After fixing the dye by steaming, we proceed to the process of washing excess glue and auxiliary agents with water.

Put cloths in the water tank while running water, and wash it quickly with a shake or brush so that the glue is softened and peeled off.
If it is not washed with water sufficiently, the texture and color will change to an unintended state.
Therefore, even if the dye or glue seems to have fallen off with the naked eye, we change the water and wash it with water many times to wash out all the excess dye inside the thread and between the fibers.

There are two types of Yuzen: the process of printing with color pastes (*1) layered on top of each other using a pattern(*2),
and the "itome" and "fuse" paste (*3) for coloring with hand-painted Yuzen to prevent dye for the ground color.

The number of stencil that make up one pattern of Yuzen, for example furisode, is about 350 to 400 sheets.
The number of colors used for a furisode is about 30 colors, and the period required for processing per pattern is about one week.

Because there are many types of pattern and dyes, it is important to use them properly according to the purpose of expression.
The color paste changes slightly depending on the temperature and humidity depending on the season,
and it affects the color feeling after dyeing, so it is necessary to have the skill to dye it without causing unevenness. It is the craftsmanship that counts.

(*1) Color paste is a dye that is mixed with paste made from rice or bran.

(*2) Printing with color pastes is the process of mixing dye with glue and rubbing it directly on a cloth. In particular, it refers to a pattern that is rubbed with a dye using a pattern.

(*3) The linear glue that binds the shape of the pattern is called "itome", and "fuse" is a paste made from glutinous rice, bran, etc., and is intended for resist dyeing.

In the "oke tie-dyeing" that symbolizes Aoyagi, "Oke packing" determines the finish of tie-dyeing.

The fabric is tied to the old-fashioned cypress cask,
but if the needle used at this time is weak or the binding method is loose, the dyeing liquid will leak into the gap.
"Oke packing" is an important work that requires delicate manual work and power.

In various rough processes, the fabric endures the power of 500 needles and a straw rope and waits for the finish.
The cask, which wears and becomes thinner every day, still protects the cloth.

When craftsmen and tools communicate with each other toward the same goal that means product completion,
we cannot help feeling a strong bond and love.

Craftsmen can add colors as they wish by using a brush that fits in their hands.

Aoyagi's strongest field is the combined use of tie-dyeing and Yuzen dyeing,
in which hand-painting is added to the fabric that has been tie-dyed with resist dyeing paste.
Hand-drawn Yuzen is the final process of creating and expressing bold and delicate colors by mixing dyes.

The compatibility between the brush and the color, which brush to use when drawing with a dark dye, is also an important factor.
Colors, brushes, and fabrics react very delicately to temperature, humidity, and wind.

Working while coordinating with temperature, humidity, and wind and having a deep relationship,
sometimes goes beyond the idea of thinking on the desk and creates a more beautiful and more natural pattern.

The number of colors is infinite.
The colors in each person's mind are different, which is also fun.